A Brief History of Men’s Fashion

We’ve heard repeatedly that menswear is governed by tradition and history. Every man (designer or stylist, editor and more) has drawn an influence from past fashions in one way or an additional time. No time period has been left unnoticed.

As we continue to study the underlying principles of style and personal taste I’m thinking we should have a look at the past hundred years of fashion for men. Perhaps this can provide some insight or context on how menswear changes and, more importantly, how to make informed choices in purchasing clothes and establishing our own your own personal fashion.

The LATE 1800S: THE END OF THE VICTORIANS

The nineteenth century was coming to an end, people were beginning to shed the Victorian influence, which featured top hats, frock coats and pocket watches, while also using walking sticks. It may appear to be an overly formal and restrictive manner to dress however it was an important move in the right direction when you consider that the Georgian period that followed it included men sporting feathers, pantyhose and high-heeled shoes. It was a thought that you were the definition of a “dandy”.

1900s: TALL and LONG, as well as LEAN.

As we entered the 1900s, men’s fashion was largely practical and boring. The lean, long and athletic style of the late 1890s was still in fashion as did the high stiff collars are typical of the era. Three-piece suits that included a sack coat that was paired with a trousers and waistcoat were worn and matched coats and waistcoat paired with pants, or a matching pants and coat with contrasting waistcoats. Sounds familiar, right? Trousers were longer than they were previously, had “turn-ups” as well as “cuffs” and were folded front and back using the new trouser press.

Following the end of World War II (which brought in a variety of classic designs for men’s clothing that remain in use today, including cargos and trench coats) the business industry began to grow and Americans were able to spend more. The increased money enabled the Americans to travel more extensively and expand their horizons both culturally and visually. A lot of them crossed across the Atlantic across the Atlantic to England as well as France. Naturally, they returned with suitcases filled with the latest fashions that were being used in the world.

Of all countries, England had the most influence on American males’ clothing. In the 1920s, American college students began to put the finishing touches on the pieces worn by the famous Oxford University, including button-down jackets, natural shoulder shirts, regimental ties and bright socks made of argyle. Additionally it was said that the Prince of Wales who was later known as the Duke of Windsor was the most well-known and influential male fashionista. Through newsreels and newspapers and magazines, the stylish Prince was the first to be a global “style icons” and became well-known and well-known for his exquisite fashion sense in clothes. He was a true trend-setter for everyday people, and this was the very first occasion in the history of clothing advertising that they used a famous face to market their products, while shamelessly marketing their merchandise “as dressed to by Prince”.

1930S The height of ELEGANCE

The beginning of the 1930s witnessed the economic crisis of 1929. While the average person couldn’t afford the world of fashion, they were interested in the fashion options of people who had the money. Hollywood films from the Silver Screen became a beacon of hope for the middle class man in the time. Both genders were captivated and awed to the elegantly dressed stars such as Fred Astaire, Clark Gabel, Cary Grant, and Gary Cooper.

In the 1930s, the American style was at its highest and was comparable to that of any European nation. It was a time in which American men were proud of the clothes they wore and the image they displayed. This was the time when men wore certain rules of conduct and proper manners. These “menswear rules” that we frequently refer to, were written during the period of this time.

“For the first time, American men recognized that clothes is not meant to hide the natural contours that define the human body. It is instead, to be a perfect fit with the natural lines of their bodies, thus enhancing his masculine physique. However the clothes shouldn’t appear too evident. In fact, they should blend into the man who was wearing the clothes. The goal of clothes did not aim to make a person apart (as was the norm over the years, when nobles and kings dressed in a particular way to achieve this) but rather to permit him to be a distinct individual within the group of individuals. …. Americans were finally able to realize that the purpose of a good outfit was to impress rather than appear glamorous.” Alan Flusser

1940S THE BIRTH OF READY-TO-WEAR

At the conclusion in World War II, American men began to depart from the strict standards and fundamental principles of formal dress that were established in the 30s. A large part of this was due to changes in the work force and the decline of formality in daily life. In the face of lower demand, the cost of custom tailoring increased which enabled the mass manufacturing of menswear as the norm for everyday wear. In this time, we was the time when mass produced ready-to wear clothing in America from a number of brands that still sell clothes in the United States today.

There were both positives and negatives in these new techniques that were mass produced. On one hand basic clothing was less expensive and accessible than it had ever been. However there was a lack of selection of styles available. Even more importantly, the major clothing companies were aware (just as the auto makers) the potential to boost sales by offering new styles each the year or each season. This was the beginning of what is known as the “trend trend cycle” in retail. It was invented by clothing companies to earn more revenue and then propagated by magazines in order to earn more money.

In the end, this strategy of marketing pushed the customer farther away from “ideals of classic fashion” that were popular in the 1930s. These focused on picking long-term pieces that enhance the appearance of the. The goal of the clothiers were to make it difficult for consumers to “re-invent him” by buying “new fashions” that were “in trend”. Sales increase regardless of the durability or style.

1950S The era of conformity

The 1950s were known as an Age of Conformity. Men returning from war were eager to be a part of the society. Being accepted and “looking like a professional” meant acquiring the Ivy League look, which was the dominant style of men’s clothing. Style and individuality was a secondary consideration. The idea was to appear “part of the group” with the boxy sack suit the oxford shirt, loafers, and rep tie. This was another major increase for the mass Ready-to-Wear companies who were happy to sell the same unfitting tweed jackets to every young man who wanted to appear professional and attractive.

In addition in the 1950s, we saw the appearance of synthetic fabrics such as nylon and rayon. This also added to the bottom line of the clothing makers who were able to save a significant amount on the expense of cloth, while also creating clothing that was believed to be “more durable and easier to clean”. It turns out that synthetic fabric is a disaster for clothing for men, especially suits. Nature-based fibers will always be the best.

Aesthetically , the period was dominated by classic grey suits and simple accessories (hat pockets, hats, martini, and cigarette) for almost every person.

1960S: REBELLION AND INDIVIDUALITY

In the 1960s, there was a time of protest and rebellion against the established and the conservatism that was popular during the 50s. Fashions reflected this new mindset particularly among the young who were more interested in personal expression and individuality rather than fashions based on fashion “rulebook”. The fashion industry was able to catch on to the new trend of young people, and offered many fashions. The stores had more options than they had ever. The time was nabbing an “anything is possible” time, when the thing that mattered most was not the clothes one wore but rather what you didn’t wear.

It began to be the time fathers started asking their sons for guidance. The first time in the history of mankind that mature men were looking younger and relaxed. This fashion, naturally was a step further from the norms of fashion that were set in the 1930s.

1970’s: DISCO FUNK

The 1970s of the early era were a continuation of the late 1960s hippie rebellion fashion. Men were particularly impacted by bell bottom jeans and tie dye shirts and military surplus clothes. The most sought-after accessories of the 1970s for men were made by hand and included headbands, necklaces and bracelets constructed out of all-natural substances like hemp, wood and leather.

Men started to wear fashionable three-piece suits (which were available in a myriad of shades) that were distinguished by broad lapels, wide-legged pants, or flared ones as well as waistcoats with high-rise. The neckties grew wider and more bold and collars for shirts became tall and pointed when the “disco music” was the fashion of the day.

1980s: Power Dressing

In the 1980s, things became more serious with wide shoulders covering suspenders and power ties. The bold color palette and graphic patterns created a sense of confidence in the nation and businessmen embraced power fashion, focusing on high-end clothing and extravagant accessories.

1990s: BAGGY BUSINESS CASUAL

It’s possible that this was the most un-dressed decade of all. The style of the 1990s was the beginning of radical changes across the globe that saw the first use of body piercings and tattoos. The result was the return of the casual style of fashion that was non-conformist and led to the rise of casual and chic style which included T-shirts, distressed jeans, large sweatshirts and trainers. “Business Casual” is also being used since corporate offices are generally less formal, which ultimately causes the attire to become more sexier and more ugly than ever.

2000S: HIPHOP & EUROPEAN TAILORING

Menswear in the modern era was heavily influenced by hip-hop culture, especially for youngsters, as well as European “slim cut” tailoring for older gentlemen. The suits began to lose weight in the midst of the time that”slim fit” or “European cut” became a sought-after style in America in the sense that it was becoming difficult to find shops that didn’t offer “slim cut”. The internet helped males to gain knowledge about menswear and share their views among fellow fashion enthusiasts. We witnessed the birth of the first blogs for men and this one was launched in 2009.

2010S The evolution of style ONLINE

The decade 2010 brought the rise of the “fashion celebrity”. Fashion bloggers have become the norm. On one the other hand, now fashion is at the fingertips of peopleand they are producing a greater range of fashions, reviews, and views than before. On the other hand the people who are being scrutinized are naturally urged to work harder and more difficult to be different from the rest of the pack. “Peacocking” was a popular menswear phrase in the first half of the decade, referring to “trying too difficult” but males have generally become at ease with subtle, refined style.

The time also witnessed the growing acceptance of shopping online. Fashion-conscious shoppers all over the world can now access the largest selection of brands before, in the comfort at their home. The internet has also enabled the growth of start-up companies than ever before and was promoted through social media and financed with online sources like kick-starter. In a sense we’re seeing the revival of small-scale brands that is fueled by the web’s power and the need for customers to own something exclusive and unique. The good thing is that middlemen are being cut off each day. Department stores, whose business is marking up goods which have already been marked up by wholesalers and are losing their grip in the marketplace as designers now have a scaleable way to market their goods directly to consumers.

In the end, my wish in the near future for menswear style is that we return to the ideals of classic clothing that were popular in the 1930s and slowly add personal touches from there. It all starts with knowing that there is a single style that is appropriate to each one of us…our bodies, our lives and personalities, etc. There is certainly plenty of variations within the same fashion, but it shouldn’t need to be a necessity to buy a new outfit each season, rather making sure that you have an ongoing collection of stunning pieces that accurately reflect and reflect the wearer.